The Off-Road Turbo kit from LowBugget.com range from $1800 to $2495
What makes it an off-road kit?

Notice how the exhaust pipes are all above the motor. No pipes go below the case. This helps for ground clearance. The off road kit will fit a wide variety of custom cars and sand rails. We also use stronger/ thicker pipes to help support the turbo and carb for expected extreme off road abuse. The location of the turbo and header is more out in the open due to the extra space that most off-road cars have.

The basic kit will support over 300hp yet we can set it up for a small 1915cc motors to putt around in without scaring your grandma!.
Our kits are designed a little different than most other shops. For one, we will give you a larger turbo than what your motor would normally use. Why? On an aircooled motor we cannot be spooling up the turbo the whole time its being used/running. This would cause the motor and turbo to produce so much heat that it would most likely not last. So we size the turbo and motor combo on a different scale. This means you will still drive on your motor as if it was a carb only motor. So it has not changed.
Let's take a Ford F250 turbo diesel. When driving this truck you can hear the turbo spooling even if your just going 10mph.
The turbo is sized to spool up asap. That type of setup would give you power real soon but cap off the power just as fast.
The Ford also has the help of water cooling to combat the heat, we do not. Most turbo vw's have reliable/power band from 1,000 to 6,000rpms without the threat of blowing up. Of course you do not want to rev your stock 1600cc to 6000rpms, but if you have the right cam, lifters, pushrods, rockers, rocker shafts, springs,retainers, keepers, valves and its all set up correctly, you should have no problem staying at 5000 rpms. I mean staying at that rpm not just hitting it once in a while.

Back to the turbo set up. I like thick pipe headers. No 22 gage pipes here. That is part of the reason why you cannot just prop a turbo on top of a baja header and call it a turbo header. We are talking up to 16 gage USA steel.

How about flanges? The LowBugget.com turbo headers all come with 5/16" thick flanges at all ends. We do not want exhaust leaks to rob you of some boost. If you have a header that is leaking, you will have a bad day trying to make your combo make power.

Carbs. We like real size carbs. Now what this means is picking the carb size is based on the use and motor size. Like for our off road kits we Weber DCOE side drafts 40mm to 50mm, Holley 2barrel to 4barrels, that range from 500cfm to over 800cfm. I know that most pepole still think in carb motor size when it comes to picking their carb size. Is BIGGER BETTER? No, On a turbo, the air is not just being pulled through with the normal vacuum of a standard motor. The air and fuel is being forced through and at great speed. Did you know that a turbo can spin up over 90,000 rpm's and do this all day?

Boost: Help foward: push forcefully
Pressure: Subject to push or squeeze ( thats whats going on in your carb and motor with a turbo.)

This type of forcing makes the size of the carb not as important. Like a set of IDA's that flow over 1100cfm to make 200hp at 8000rpms where as a turbo motor would only need around 200cfm at half the rpms to make the same power. Can your 1915 make 200hp with a single 40mm carb? I don't think so.
But a turbo 1915 can make 250hp and 250tq with that same carb and do it all day long with ease!.

We ship our kits with an internal wastegate. This helps keep the cost down on the kit. We can add the Delta style wastegate to your kit for $259.99 more. Basically you are paying for a external wastegate. Why would you need this type of wastegate?
If you are going to use the kit with over 15lbs of boost than more control over the boost would be needed. Most motors will double their output from 12 to 15lbs of boost. Yes a 1915 can make from 200hp on just 12lbs of boost. The last 2276cc made 256hp and 258tq with only 12lbs.

You will notice that our kits are offered complete. The only things you will need to buy to make this kit work on a car is a Boost gauge with a boost line to run it up front and a fuel pump.
You may need to make a carb mount to help support the carb for off-road use.

The exhaust pipe from the turbo comes as a single 90* bend with the kit. But you can add the two bend like in the picture.

The fuel is controlled by a Holley regulator. For side draft carbs you will need a boost sensitive regulator to help increase the fuel pressure as boost increases. Our regulators have adjustable fuel pressure and rate. For Holley type carbs you will not need the extra fuel control as a Holley can take 7lbs without flooding or blowing open the needle and seat. The Webers can only take 3lbs or less so the fuel pressure must increase and match the boost.