Will not start:
Do you have fuel?
Do you have spark?
Check for intake leaks.
Is the timing correct?
Are the plug wires on correctly?
Are the valves adjusted too tight?
Incorrect accelerator fuel squirt adjustment.
Check for high fuel pressure. Kadrons like lower than 2.00 lb. max.(1.5 is good)
A stock fuel pump can produce over 4lbs of fuel pressure.You may need a regulator.

Will not idle:
Check the idle adjustment. You must adjust your mixture before you adjust the idle.
Try two turns out on the mixture to start. ( this is only to get the motor running)
Check for intake leaks.
Check for clogged idle jets.
Are the plugs fouling? use only good plugs like NGK®. I do not like Bosch® plugs.
Check for high fuel pressure. Kadrons like lower than 2.00 lb. max.(1.5 is good)
A stock fuel pump can produce over 4lbs of fuel pressure.You may need a regulator.
Is the idle jet the correct size for your motor?
Is the idle speed too low? Most motors will not need to be set below 900rpms.
We find all the time that the numbers stamped on each jet is wrong. You should check each jet
with a good jet gauge.This is why from day one we hand ream each and every jet that has left this shop so we know it is..... what we say it is.

Fast idle:
Adjust the idle speed screws
Intake leak.
Your throttle bodies are worn or bad. Its time to rebush!
Incorrectly adjusted linkage.
You may need a stronger return spring.
Timing is too high.check the timing and set BTDC. most motors like around 32-34* total.
Check your mixture settings.

Slow idle:
Adjust the idle speed screws
Check for high fuel pressure. Kadrons like lower than 2.00 lb. max.(1.5 is good)
A stock fuel pump can produce over 4lbs of fuel pressure.You may need a regulator.
Check your mixture settings.

Rough idle:
Check your mixture settings.
Adjust the idle speed screws
Check for intake leaks.
If your motor has a performance cam, you may need to increase the idle speed. this is
normally not a problem with small cams like Engle® style 100 and 110 cams.
but with larger cams with more than 290@.020 or 250@.050 duration you will have
to run higher idle speed.
Is the idle jet the correct size for your motor?
check your linkage, make it open the carbs not close or hold them open.
We find all the time that the numbers stamped on new jets are wrong. You should check each jet
with a good jet gauge or to match jets you should use a tapered gauge.
This is why from day one, we hand drilled and gauge each set of jets that has left this shop
so we know it is what we say it is.

Will idle but not after coming to a stop:
Check for high fuel pressure. Kadrons like lower than 2.00 lb. max.(1.5 is good)
A stock fuel pump can produce over 4lbs of fuel pressure.You may need a regulator.
Is your needle and seat old?
Is your float still afloat?
Check your fuel pump for pressure spikes. Some fuel pumps pulsate and this can cause
a problem for the stock kadron needle valves..
If you just rebuilt your carbs and you still have one of the "O" rings from the new needle set,
than add the second "o" ring. This is to properly space the needle valve based on the gasket that
was supplied with your gasket kit.
Is the vacuum advance working on your carbs?
How are your muffler bearings? I find these to go out all the time!!!

Black smoke at idle:
Check your mixture settings.
Check for high fuel pressure. Kadrons like lower than 2.00 lb. max.(1.5 is good)
A stock fuel pump can produce over 4lbs of fuel pressure.You may need a regulator.
Check your fuel pressure spikes. Some fuel pumps pulsate and this can cause a problem.
Is your float still afloat?
Incorrect accelerator fuel squirt adjustment.
Is the idle jet the correct size for your motor?
If you just rebuild your carbs and you still have one of the "O" rings from the new needle set,
than add the second "o" ring.
This is to properly space the needle valve based on the gasket that was supplied with
your gasket kit.
Your start stopper is bad!!!

Black smoke in mid range:
Check your main jet sizing.
Is the idle jet the correct size for your motor?
Take a plug reading.
Incorrect accelerator fuel squirt adjustment.
Are you still using a 009 distributor? click here for more info Kadrons need vacuum advance.
Is your vacuum advance working?
Do you leave hard from a light? If so then click here and check out the Vent Kit.
It may be time to step up to larger venturies.

Stumble off idle:
Are you still using a 009 distributor? click here for more info Kadrons need vacuum advance
to work correctly.
Incorrect accelerator fuel squirt adjustment
Is your mixture adjusted correctly?
Are you missing the check ball in one or each carb?
Check for high fuel pressure. Kadrons like lower than 2.00 lb. max.(1.5 is good)
A stock fuel pump can produce over 4lbs of fuel pressure.You may need a regulator.
Check your fuel pressure spikes. Some fuel pumps pulsate and this can cause a problem.
Is your float still afloat?
Check for intake leaks.
check your linkage, make it open the carbs not close or hold them open.
We find all the time that the numbers stamped on new jets are wrong. You should check each jet
with a good jet gauge or to match jets you shold used a tapered gauge.
This is why from day one, we hand drilled and gauge each set of jets that has left this shop
so we know it is what we say it is.
Is the timing correct? (you must set timing at full advance)
Are the valves adjusted correctly? i like to set them at .0 to .002" cold.
Wrong idle jet size.
Is your turn signal oil running low? I would check!!!

Stumble in the mid range:
Clogged idle jet
Are you still using a 009 distributor? click here for more info Kadrons need vacuum advance.
Incorrect accelerator fuel squirt adjustment.
Small idle jet.
Too big of venturies.
Incorrectly adjusted linkage.

Poor gas mileage:
Are you still using a 009 distributor? click here for more info Kadrons need vacuum advance.
Is the idle jet the correct size for your motor?
Is the main jet the correct size for your motor?
Check for high fuel pressure. Kadrons like lower than 2.00 lb. max. (1.5 is good)
Is your float still afloat?
If you just rebuild your carbs and you still have one of the "O" rings from the new needle set,
than add the second "o" ring.
Is the timing correct? I do not recommend setting your timing at idle or static. This is just for
getting it to start and should be set afterwards with a timing gun set at full advance.
Did you adjust the mixture?
Are the plugs fouling?
Is your right foot big?
Are your tires low on air?
Are your brakes dragging?
Is your airfilter bad?

Poor performance:
Is the timing correct? I do not recommend setting your timing at idle or static. This is just for
getting it to start and should be set afterwards with a timing gun set at full advance.
Are you still using a 009 distributor? click here for more info Kadrons like vacuum advance.
Is the idle jet the correct size for your motor?
Did you adjust the mixture?
Check for high fuel pressure. Kadrons like lower than 2.00 lb. max.(1.5 is good)
A stock fuel pump can produce over 4lbs of fuel pressure.You may need a regulator.
Check for fuel pressure spikes. Some fuel pumps pulsate and this can cause a problem.
Is your float still afloat?
Do you have the correct venturies?
Check out the Power Page for your Kadrons.

Keeps running after i shut the motor off:
The main jet and / or idle is to big.
Is the timing correct? I do not recommend setting your timing at idle or static.
This is just for getting it to start and should be set afterwards with a timing gun
set at full advance.
Did you adjust the mixture?
Check for high fuel pressure. Kadrons like lower than 2.00 lb. max.(1.5 is good)
A stock fuel pump can produce over 4lbs of fuel pressure.You may need a regulator.
Check for fuel pressure spikes. Some fuel pumps pulsate and this can cause a problem.
Is your float still afloat?

Popping out the exhaust:
Incorrect Jetting.
Check for an exhust leak.
are your valves adjusted correctly? Check all of the valves.
Is the timing correct? I do not recommend setting your timing at idle or static.
This is just for getting it to start and should be set afterwards with a timing gun
set at full advance.
Is your ignition unit coming loose inside your dizzy? this can cause a misfire.

Popping out the top of carb:
Incorrect Jetting.
Clogged idle jet.
The distributor is not advancing correctly
incorrect accelerator fuel squirt adjustment.
Small main jet.
To big of venturies.
Check your linkage, make it open the carbs not close or hold them open.
Is the timing correct? I do not recommend setting your timing at idle or static.
This is just for getting it to start and should be set afterwards with a timing gun set at full
advance.

I have a synchronizer tool, should I use it?
I do not use a synchronizer tool for adjustments or to setup.
You can try and pinch off the crossover tube and make your adjustments, but then you will
notice that the car will run like crap after you UN-pinch the tube.
Yes I could sell you one of these synchronizer tools and make some money but why?
So you can call me asking why your motor runs bad after you pinch off the tube
and try to use one? Some shops will tell you to pinch off the tube to make adjustments.
Do not pinch off the tube unless you plan on running your car that way.
As long as the linkage is set up correct than the use of a sync tool is not needed.
Why?
The Kadron carb is a plenum base setup. Trying to synchronize these carbs is
like trying to synchronize one of the barrels on a 4- barrel Holley® carb. There is a open plenum that is shared by more than one cylinder under the carb. "You are wasting your time".
If you want to set the carbs correctly than use a vacuum gauge and set at the highest vacuum reading per carb at idle.. you may need to take the stock linkage off, so it is not pushing / pulling on the carb arms.

What to set your timing and valve adjustment at.
VALVE ADJUSTMENTS:
First thing is to check your valve adjustments. Now i set all my motors valve setting at
.000 to .002" on the coldest day or coldest time of the day (like 5am).
Why not .004 on the Intake and .006 on the exhaust like the book tells us to?
We do not live in Germany. The tempture is not that cold here. I live in California were the biggest change in temp is less than 50* for the whole year. Now some states have more extreme changes like Maine or New York but that is ok as long as you keep up on your valve adjustments. See the reason for the .004-.006 setting is so when the motor starts to heat up the aluminum pushrods must have more of a gap until the case, heads, barrels .etc can catch up on the expansion. This expansion rate differance is about 1-3 minutes or so (this will depend on how cold your motor is.)if you live in a cold climate and are not keeping up with your valve adjustments,then play it safe and go with the factory setting of .004 to .006. But if you live in an area where the most the temp will change is only 60* then take the extra lift / power and run with it.Now if you have a chromemoly pushrod then you will not need to set it at the .004-.006" as the expansion rate is the opposite. The motor will expand first then the pushrod will follow. So set it at .00" and let it be.
TIMMING:
For the timing that will depend on the motors chamber and compression. lets say your motor is a stock 1600 with .06deck and 55.0cc chamber with stock 7.2:1 compression, then set your timing with vacuum off at 33-35* BTDC. if the same motor had less deck like .04" and a faster burning chamber you could run normal timing like a total advance of 28-32* BTDC.
The lower the compression, the more timing you will need. So if your motor has a big chamber than you will need more timing. If your motor has semi-hemi heads than your motor will need close to 36-40* of timing. "read the section below"

I am still using the stock linkage / The one that came with the carb kit.
If you have the stock linkage then this will not help you. Do not read on. "I said do not read on!!!"
With a good linkage you will not need to use the crossover tube that connects the two manifolds.
With the stock linkage you will.The stock linkage is steel and will not match or stay close with the expansion rate of your motor. So as your motor heats up the linkage must expand with it. If not then after it heats up you will notice it will not run good and this is where the crossover tube comes into play for your motor. Its job is to level off or make up for the carb that is open more than the other.
The LowBugget.com linkage® or Berg® linkage will stay close to the expansion of your motor.This means you can block off the tube and get some snap back into your motor.

Low compression motors and there jetting.
A 1776 with 8.0:1 compression will want a smaller idle and main jet versus the same motor
with 6.8:1. But that is not the whole story.
This is due to the poor burning of the large combustion area used on the lower
compression motors. Because of the large area and how inefficient it burns within this
type of chamber, it will not burn all the fuel. To help out this problem that is taking place,
most large chambers will need more lead time for the ignition(34 to 40 degrees total advance
of timing is common in these motors). This will cause the motor to have high head temp on the exhaust side.
To help solve this problem you will run a larger main and idle jets to dump unburned fuel
on to the exhaust in an attempt to cool the exhaust valve and head. If this was a good idea
wouldn't you think that all the major auto manufacturers would build all of the new cars
with low compression 6.8-7.2:1 motors and not normal 9.0 to 11.0:1?

What is the main benefits to running normal compression?

*Compression is torque, torque is what moves your car.You take this away then you are
taking its power with it.

*less timing is needed on a smaller chamber, the spark does not have to travel so far.
You are not heating up the head.

*Easier to start."Back to the timing thing" if your timing is at 38* total advance for a 6.8:1motor
then you are starting your car at 17* to 18* degrees. ( this is based on a normal 009 with 20-21*)
Your motor is turning to slow for that amount of timing at startup.

*Runs cooler due to the more efficient combustion process.A perfect burning chamber would produce no heat.

*Is easy to jet and tune. Because your motor is burning all of the fuel it will make more power and
be a lot easier to read the spark plugs.

Is higher on the fun factor scale!!!

Now dont get me wrong, I do not want you to go out and bump your compression to 12:1 and
go for a drive across the US of A, but with the right cam,heads,exhaust,jeting and timing
system you can run just like a new Honda or Ford in the 8.0 to 10.0:1 range.